How do I stop dry rot?

There is dampness on the inside face of an external wall of a building from floor level to a height of approximately 750 - 800 mm.

How damp is an old property likely to be?

Is damp in a building always a problem?

There is damp showing at low level just above the floor on the inside face of an external wall. What is the likely cause and what can be done about it?

I have an 18th century brick and timber cottage and on one section of exterior painted brick wall a kind of 'bubbling' effect has appeared, together with discolouration and marking. This is to a height of about 800 mm. In a survey of the house 10 years ago, it was described as efflorescence. In the last 10 years this has twice been smoothed out, sealed and repainted but the bubbling effect and brown marking reappears after a while. I have asked a couple of local builders about this but they have been unable to offer an explanation or permanent solution. with a recemmendation to 'remove any loose areas, seal and redecorate' - but this has already been done, twice, as mentioned above. What is happening and what should I do about it?

I had a solid oak floor put down in my living room a year ago on top of an old concreter floor. The concrete floor was first sealed with a latex solution and then the boards glued on top. About three months later the boards began to expand and warp so that the floor is now corrugated. Should I have it taken up at great expense, or is there any way I can save the floor?

I intend to add 250 mm (10") of thermal insulation over the first floor ceiling of my stone built thatched roof cottage. How do I ensure air circulation to prevent the thatch then rotting on the inside of the roof?

Is it possible to obtain a match for a 19th C carpet in terms of colour, quality and design and what is involved?

There is an open fire in the bar of the 16th century pub that I own and run. Over the hearth is a metal canopy, which is part of the character of this old building. At times the fire smokes a lot as the chimney does not draw, particularly when the wind is in a certain direction. It is noticeable that when the external bar door is open it smokes less, but when it is closed and also when the door from the kitchen opens it starts to smoke again. The chimney is on an external gable wall.

When I removed an old freezer from my first floor kitchen I found some old and mouldy newspaper underneath it. Below the newspaper there is wet and spongy wooden pine floorboards. The surrounding timber is dry and sound and below the floor is the ceiling of a garage. The floor is covered with vinyl sheet flooringthat has rust stains from the old freezer

My house is old but not listed. Can I go ahead and install replacement double glazed windows within it?

Can replacement windows to a house built in 1865 be VAT-free as new work or do I have to pay the VAT?

I am reluctant to replace the nice old sash windows of my house (early 19th C), but they are so draughty, rattle in the wind and let the street noise in. They are starting to get a little tatty due to age, a couple do not slide or open properly, but they give the house its character. Is there anything I can do apart from replace them with new double glazed windows?